THE HISTORY OF BITTERS Part Two: The Medicinal Wines of Greece and Rome

Written by N. Streawbridge| 29 April 2026

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How measured botanicals, controlled maceration and written formulas began to give bitters a recognisable pharmaceutical form


The decisive change was not that the Greeks and Romans suddenly invented modern bitters. It was that botanical wines became written formulas: plants were measured, tied into linen, steeped for defined periods, strained, transferred and preserved.


From fermented medicine to a written formulary


Part One of this series followed the earliest known lineage of bitters through ancient Egypt, where aromatic herbs, spices, fruits and resins were carried in fermented beer or wine. In the Greek and Roman world, that tradition became more systematic. Wine and fresh grape must were no longer simply ingredients within a compound remedy; they became carefully selected medicinal media in their own right.


This was still not the modern digestive bitter. There was no small bottle of concentrated tincture and no standard aperitif or after-dinner dose. The surviving preparations were medicinal wines made for many different purposes. Yet their structure is increasingly familiar: a defined botanical, a measured quantity of wine or must, a period of contact, and a final act of straining, transferring or sealing.


The Hippocratic tradition: food and drink as medicine


The Hippocratic writers treated food, drink, climate, constitution and daily regimen as active influences on health. In On Ancient Medicine, wine is not described as uniformly good or bad. Its effect depends on its strength, quantity and on the person drinking it. That way of thinking matters to the history of bitters: the vehicle itself had properties, and the physician was expected to understand how it altered the preparation and the patient.


A surviving Hippocratic preparation for ulcer treatment combined frankincense, gall and saffron with unripe-grape juice and an austere, dark and fragrant wine. It was not a beverage bitter, and its wound-use context should not be confused with a digestive tonic. Nevertheless, it shows how deliberately the character of the grape product was chosen. Sour unripe juice, astringent gall, aromatic resin, saffron and wine were made to work as one pharmaceutical composition.


Dioscorides: medicinal wines become technical recipes


The clearest step towards a recognisable bitters formulary appears in the first century CE in De Materia Medica by Pedanius Dioscorides, a Greek physician working within the Roman world. Book V is devoted largely to vines, grapes, wines and related preparations. Its recipes are strikingly practical. Botanicals are pounded, sifted or bruised; some are wrapped in linen and weighted so that they remain submerged; jars are sealed; and maceration may continue for days or months before the wine is strained into a clean vessel.


Wormwood is particularly important. Its powerful bitterness was not disguised or treated as an accidental taste. It was deliberately combined with wine or must, sometimes alone and sometimes balanced by fragrant roots, bark, flowers and fruit. This is one of the points at which bitterness starts to become part of the architecture of the preparation.


Three formulas that show the transition


Wormwood wine — the simple maceration


Historical formula. Wormwood, 1 lb; grape must, 9 gal.


Method. Beat the wormwood, bind it in thin linen and place it in the must for two months; then remove or strain it and store the wine.


Why it matters. The plant is measured, contained in an early infusion bag, given a defined contact time and removed before storage.


Aromatic wormwood wine


Historical formula. Wormwood, 3–4 oz; Syrian nard, cinnamon, cassia, flowers of juncus odoratus and Phoenician dates, 2 oz each; grape must, 9 gal.


Method. Pound the ingredients, place them in the must, seal for two or three months, then strain into other jars.


Why it matters. This is not bitterness alone. Bitter wormwood is layered with aromatic bark, fragrant root, flowers and dates—the same broad architecture that will reappear much later in complex bitters and aromatised wines.


Hyssop wine


Historical formula. Bruised Cilician hyssop leaves, 1 lb; grape must, 9 gal; small stones sufficient to sink the bundle.


Method. Wrap the hyssop and stones in thin linen, submerge the bundle, then strain and transfer the wine after forty days.


Why it matters. The recipe shows deliberate control of extraction: particle preparation, submersion, contact time and separation of the finished liquid.


Dioscorides records many more wines: horehound, betony, dittany, thyme, savory, elecampane, nard, myrrh, iris and several aromatic combinations. Some are distinctly bitter; others are pungent, resinous or intensely fragrant. Together they show that medicinal wine had become a broad formulation system rather than a single remedy.


Rome: the pharmacy enters the agricultural household


The Roman contribution is especially revealing because medicinal wines also appear in agricultural writing. Columella’s De Re Rustica is a practical work concerned with the management of an estate, yet Book XII moves easily between wine production, preservation and remedies. The boundary between cellar and pharmacy was porous.


Columella records wines made with horehound, squill, wormwood, hyssop, southernwood, thyme, fennel, pennyroyal, rosemary and myrtle. Some were fermented with the plant; others used a concentrated herbal portion that was later added to a larger volume of must. The recipes preserve not only ingredients but process decisions—when to harvest, whether to dry the plant, how long to leave it in contact and when to remove it.


Columella’s wormwood wine


Historical formula. Pontic wormwood, 1 Roman lb; grape must, 4 sextarii; one urna of Aminean must.


Method. Boil the wormwood with four sextarii of must until one quarter remains. Cool the remainder and add it to one urna of Aminean must.


Why it matters. Here the bitter fraction is first concentrated and then dispersed into the larger wine volume—a more technically controlled approach than simple maceration.


Historical Note.  From the Amineae to Modern Campania. The Latin name Amineae did not describe one uniform grape variety in the modern sense. Pliny distinguished five Aminean vines and placed them at the head of the Italian grapes because their wines combined body with durability. He associated members of this vine family particularly with the vineyards around Mount Vesuvius and the hills of Surrentum, placing them firmly within Campania’s celebrated Roman wine landscape.

The strongest present-day Campanian association is
Greco, especially the white grape used for Greco di Tufo in Irpinia. Campanian viticultural tradition and the regional agricultural authority identify Greco with the ancient Aminea Gemina, one of the highly regarded Aminean forms described by Roman agricultural writers. Fresh Greco must is therefore the most historically defensible present-day analogue for Columella’s ingredient.

The connection remains a historical identification rather than a proven genetic descent: no ancient vine securely labelled “Aminean” is available for direct DNA comparison. Fiano, Falanghina, Coda di Volpe and Aglianico are also important old Campanian cultivars, but they are better understood as companions within the same surviving regional wine culture—not as confirmed descendants of the Aminean vines.



Columella’s horehound wine


Historical formula. Dried tender horehound stalks, 8 Roman lb; sweet must, 200 sextarii.


Method. Tie the dried stalks into bundles, add them to the sweet must so that they ferment with it, then remove the horehound and seal the clarified wine.


Why it matters. The plant participates in fermentation itself, preserving the older relationship between botanical medicine and the production of the fermented drink.


Historical Note. How different was this from wine today? Columella’s wormwood wine was not a finished table wine subsequently flavoured with herbs. A concentrated preparation of wormwood and grape must was cooled and added to a much larger quantity of fresh Aminean must, allowing the bitter botanical to become part of the wine as it fermented. The result would have been an unfortified but markedly bitter, herbaceous medicinal wine. It was closer to a fermented botanical preparation than to modern Greco di Tufo, yet also unlike modern vermouth, which is usually compounded from finished wine, several botanicals, sweetening agents and additional alcohol. Its flavour, strength and stability would have depended on spontaneous fermentation, the vintage and the individual cellar.


What had changed?


By the end of this period, several features of the later bitters tradition were already present. Bitter plants were being selected intentionally. Aromatics were used to broaden and balance the sensory profile. Extraction was controlled through bruising, pounding, linen bundles, heat and time. Recipes distinguished between fresh wine, grape must, raisin wine and unripe-grape concentrate. Finished preparations were strained, transferred and stored.


What had not yet appeared was equally important. These were not concentrated spirit tinctures, and they were not yet the proprietary digestifs, amari or cocktail bitters of later centuries. They belonged to a medical and household tradition in which wine functioned simultaneously as ingredient, solvent, preservative and medicine.


The next stage


After Greece and Rome, the tradition did not disappear. Formulas travelled through Byzantine, Arabic and medieval European medicine. Bitter aloe preparations such as Hiera Picra—the “Holy Bitter”—would become influential, while monasteries and apothecaries developed increasingly complex medicinal wines, electuaries, distilled waters and elixirs. That is where Part Three will begin.


Historical note. The quantities and methods above are preserved as historical evidence, not modern instructions. Ancient plant identities, strengths, measures and processes may be uncertain, and several of the botanicals are unsuitable or unsafe for unsupervised use.


References


1. Hippocrates. On Ancient Medicine, trans. Francis Adams. https://classics.mit.edu/Hippocrates/ancimed.html

2. Dioscorides. De Materia Medica, Book V, trans. Tess Anne Osbaldeston (2000), especially the medicinal-wine passages. https://archive.org/details/dioscorides-de-materia-medica-2000-english

3. Columella. On Agriculture, vol. III, Books X–XII, trans. E. S. Forster and Edward H. Heffner. https://archive.org/details/columella0003unse


Editorial basis: Wildberry Book of Bitters research corpus, checked against the cited primary texts. Source units are intentionally preserved; no modern dose conversions have been introduced.


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A patient recently came to Wildberry Clinic because she was repeatedly waking during the night with painful cramps in her legs. Like many people, she assumed the answer was magnesium. She bought a magnesium supplement and started taking it herself. But the cramps continued. That raised a more useful clinical question: Why was she getting nocturnal leg cramps in the first place? Because a night-time leg cramp is a symptom — not a diagnosis. What is a nocturnal leg cramp? A true muscle cramp is a sudden, involuntary and often intensely painful contraction of a muscle. At night it most commonly affects the calf or foot, although other muscles can be involved. The muscle may become visibly or palpably hard, and the episode can last from seconds to several minutes. Occasional nocturnal cramps are extremely common and are often benign. But recurrent, severe or newly developing cramps deserve a broader look. Different possibilities: what could be causing the cramps? 1. Idiopathic nocturnal leg cramps Sometimes there is no identifiable underlying disease. Nocturnal leg cramps become more common with age, and alterations in neuromuscular excitability, muscle shortening, physical activity and biomechanics may all contribute. But “idiopathic” should not simply be assumed before taking a proper history. 2. Chronic venous disease Venous disease is an important part of the differential. Chronic venous insufficiency and varicose veins can be associated with aching, heaviness, swelling and nocturnal cramps . Clues that make us think more carefully about the venous circulation include: visible varicose veins; ankle or lower-leg swelling; legs that feel heavy, aching or tired; symptoms becoming worse after prolonged standing; skin changes around the ankle or lower leg. A cramp alone does not diagnose venous disease, but cramps occurring within this wider pattern deserve vascular assessment. 3. Arterial disease Peripheral arterial disease produces a different pattern. Classically, patients describe calf discomfort when walking that improves with rest. More advanced arterial insufficiency may cause pain at rest, particularly in the foot, together with coldness, colour changes, poor wound healing or reduced peripheral pulses. Not every painful leg symptom at night is therefore a muscle cramp. 4. Neurological causes Muscle contraction ultimately depends on nerve signalling. Peripheral neuropathy, nerve-root irritation or compression and some neuromuscular disorders can therefore produce cramping. We become particularly interested in a neurological cause when cramps occur alongside: numbness; tingling; burning; weakness; altered sensation; muscle wasting; fasciculations; back pain radiating into the leg. Diabetes is relevant here because peripheral neuropathy may alter sensory and motor nerve function. 5. Electrolyte disturbances This is where magnesium belongs — as one part of the differential rather than the default explanation. Abnormalities involving magnesium, potassium, calcium or sodium can affect neuromuscular function. They become more plausible in situations involving: vomiting or diarrhoea; significant sweating; dehydration; restrictive diets; malabsorption; kidney disease; certain medicines. The clinical circumstances matter more than simply assuming that every cramp represents magnesium deficiency. But what about magnesium? Magnesium is essential for normal nerve and muscle function. True magnesium deficiency can increase neuromuscular excitability and may produce cramps, tremor and other symptoms. But taking magnesium because you have cramps does not prove that you were magnesium deficient. And more is not necessarily better. Too much magnesium can also be dangerous The kidneys normally remove excess magnesium, so significant hypermagnesaemia — an abnormally high magnesium concentration in the blood — is uncommon in people with normal kidney function. The risk becomes substantially greater when renal function is impaired, particularly if someone is taking magnesium-containing supplements, laxatives or antacids. Early excessive intake may produce gastrointestinal effects such as diarrhoea. With significant hypermagnesaemia, however, magnesium begins to suppress neuromuscular and cardiovascular function. Symptoms can include: muscle weakness; reduced reflexes; drowsiness; low blood pressure; slowed breathing; abnormalities of cardiac conduction. Severe magnesium toxicity can cause profound hypotension, respiratory depression and, at very high concentrations, cardiac arrest. This is particularly important in people with reduced kidney function , because their ability to excrete magnesium is impaired. 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The useful question is therefore not: “Which magnesium should I take?” It is: “Why is this muscle cramping?” That distinction can completely change the clinical assessment — and sometimes reveal something much more important than a nutritional deficiency. Disclaimer This article is for educational purposes only and is not intended to diagnose or treat any medical condition or replace individual medical assessment. Nocturnal leg cramps have many possible causes, and recurrent, severe, newly developing or unexplained cramps should be assessed in the context of the person’s medical history, medications, examination and, where appropriate, investigations. Supplements, including magnesium, should not be assumed to be necessary solely because cramps are present. Particular caution is required with magnesium supplementation in people with impaired kidney function, as excessive magnesium can accumulate in the blood and, in severe cases, affect neuromuscular, respiratory and cardiovascular function. References Garrison SR, Korownyk CS, Kolber MR, Allan GM, Musini VM, Sekhon RK, Dugré N. Magnesium for skeletal muscle cramps. Cochrane Database of Systematic Reviews. 2020;9:CD009402. doi:10.1002/14651858.CD009402.pub3. The review found that magnesium is unlikely to provide clinically meaningful prevention of idiopathic cramps in older adults; evidence for pregnancy-associated cramps remains uncertain. De Maeseneer MG, Kakkos SK, Aherne T, et al. European Society for Vascular Surgery (ESVS) 2022 Clinical Practice Guidelines on the Management of Chronic Venous Disease of the Lower Limbs. European Journal of Vascular and Endovascular Surgery. 2022;63(2):184–267. doi:10.1016/j.ejvs.2021.12.024. 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